Water dipping is a trick old-school guys used to break in their motors, but it would also help clean your brushed motors. Never use this method on brushless motors. You will need a cup of water and your motor wired back to your electronics so it works just like if you mounted it in the vehicle.
Put enough water into the cup so that you can submerge your motor in it. Next, turn on your radio and your electronics just like you were going to run the vehicle. Run the motor, and hold it in your hand while you turn the throttle trim up until the motor is running at a nice, steady rpm.
With your motor submerged in the water, let it run for about 10 minutes. As the motor runs in the water, the brushes will contour to the shape of the commutator and help the motor produce more efficient power back in your vehicle. After the time is up, remove it from the water and the other electronics.
Let it dry, put some oil on the bushings or bearings, and let it sit for a few hours. When you have a motor that can be disassembled, you can get in there and clean things up. However, this process tends to be very involved. On these type of motors, the endbell comes off by removing the screws holding it in place. Once the screws are removed, start with the end from which the armature sticks out. Take your time and gently remove the endbell.
You can now pull the armature out and wipe that clean. You are also going to want to remove the bearing from the endbell and use motor spray to blast out the bearings. Add a couple of drops of oil on the bearings, reinstall the shims and spacers as they were before you took it apart, and reinstall the armature. Lastly, reinstall the endbell and snug it up tightly. Give the motor a couple of spins by hand; it should spin fairly easily and feel clean and smooth.
If this all checks out, wire it up and give it a little run test in your hand—your motor should now run nice and quietly. Crush a piece of paper between the gears and tighten it up. With the paper removed, your mesh will be perfect every time. Put a piece of notebook paper in between the gears and tighten the motor. Once you pull out the paper, the teeth of the pinion gear should wiggle a very little bit in the teeth of the spur gear.
Be sure the vehicle runs quietly after you reinstall the motor—this is a tell-tale sign of the condition of your gear mesh. If the vehicle is loud, the mesh is too tight and you need to reset the gear mesh. A little bit of work can yield a lot more play time. Once your motor is clean and your mesh is all set, you get to go out and get it all dirty again! The type of terrain you drive in will alter how often you should clean your motor. Your email address will not be published.
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If there is any black coloring from the arcing, it's a good idea to try to scrub that off the surface before installing the new brushes. Brushed motors are actually very simple. In RC we work with DC current and it flows through electronic circuits much like water flows through pipes. We open up a path, the current flows through, things happen. This is where the power travels through wires that are attached to the motor outputs from the ESC electronic speed control. The current is then transferred to a brush on each side of the motor.
The brushes sit in the brush hood and are attached to the motor end bell by a screw or solder joint and held in constant pressure with a spring. There are stand up and lay down styles of brush.
The Pro motors use a lay-down style left and the HD motors use a stand-up right. The brush hoods on the two motors differ to accommodate the different brushes used. The spring pushes the brush into the commutator at the top of the armature inside the motor can. The "comm" as we call it, short for commutator, is the contact point where current is transferred from the brushes and into the armature windings. Brushes are a wear item and should be checked often depending on the environment you drive in.
If there's lots of water and you frequently get your motor wet, you'll need to check the brushes for excessive wear. The comm is a wear item as well and should be inspected and cleaned frequently. You want a nice copper color and a smooth surface.
If the comm is pitted, rusty or turning black these are all signs a cut may be needed on a comm lathe and that the brushes may be burnt or too short.
The armature holds the windings, which are lengths of wire s wrapped around each arm. Each wrap is called a "turn" and is how the motor ultimately is rated; really all you need to pay attention to when selecting.
A 30T motor has 30 wraps winds of wire around each arm. What's the difference between machine wound and hand wound? Machine wound motors are just that, wound by a machine and usually not wound as tight or precise as a hand wound.
Hand wound armatures being wrapped precisely will usually contain less wire, resulting in lower resistance, and more power.
Pro armature left and HD armature right both differ in the wind type as well as the comm sizes and brush styles. The motor can has two magnets inside that surround the armature. As current is sent through each of the three winding arms, the armature is pulled and pushed toward the magnets in the can and your rig moves. Being that the armature is a spinning part, the bearings need to be inspected, cleaned and oiled often.
There is one in the motor can and one in the endbell. Both can be cleaned out with electric motor spray and re-oiled with a light bearing oil.
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